Filler metals and gases
Electrodes, wires, shielding gases, tungsten electrodes, fluxes.
The consumable decides more about the weld than the machine does. A coating is not packaging: it shields the arc, forms the slag, stabilises the arc electrically and alloys the deposit — change the coating and you have changed the process.
Two things are worth learning properly. Reading a designation, because E 42 4 B 42 H5 tells you the strength, the impact class, the coating and the hydrogen level, and those four facts decide whether the electrode suits the joint. And storage, because a basic electrode that has spent a night on the bench is no longer a low-hydrogen electrode whatever the box says.
Frequently asked questions
Which coating for a beginner?
Rutile. It strikes on the first try, runs on AC or DC, forgives a long arc and the slag lifts off almost by itself. Basic electrodes teach bad habits at first, because the struggle to keep the arc lit hides everything else that is going wrong.
Do basic electrodes really need baking?
On a joint that matters, yes. A basic coating takes up moisture from the air, moisture becomes hydrogen in the arc, and hydrogen causes cold cracking a day after the weld looked fine. Two hours at 300–350 °C, then a quiver at 100–150 °C.
How do I substitute one electrode for another?
By three things, in order: strength class, impact class and coating type. Equal or higher on the first two, and never swap a basic for a rutile on a critical joint. The brand name is the last thing to look at.