Steel stairs and railings
A steel staircase comes down to four decisions: what carries the treads, how the flight is fixed to the structure, what the tread is covered with and what closes the gap in the railing. Each is decided separately, and each can be got wrong independently of the others.
The flight as a whole
The load-bearing part of a flight is the stringer, usually cut as a saw-tooth: triangular pads welded to a sloping beam, with the treads sitting on top. At the top the flight bears on a cast-in plate in the floor edge; at the bottom on a base plate bolted to the floor with anchors.

The height of the flight is measured from finished floor to finished floor. It is the one dimension that cannot be refined later: once a screed goes down on top, all the steps are already welded, and the surplus has to be given to the bottom step — which then sits visibly lower than the rest.
What carries the treads

- On stringers — treads on top; the most common and the simplest to fabricate.
- Between strings — treads between the beams; stricter to look at, but the flight grows by two beam thicknesses.
- Single spine beam — one beam down the middle; lighter to the eye, dearer in the joints.
- Spiral — fits into 1.5 m, but carrying things up it is awkward; it is not taken as the only staircase in a house.
- Flight with a landing — when a 90 or 180° turn is needed and the storey height will not fit one run.
What holds the staircase
The top and bottom joints work differently: the top one in tension, the bottom one in shear. The anchors differ accordingly, and a mistake at the top is the more dangerous of the two.

The ideal is a plate cast into the floor in advance: the stringer is welded to it and the joint behaves as one piece. Without a cast-in plate, a plate is anchored to the slab edge — a workable solution, but it needs a slab of decent thickness and a clean hit between the reinforcement.
What the tread is covered with

Indoors, timber on studs is the usual answer on a steel frame: oak or ash, 40 mm thick. Tiles on a backing belong where the staircase meets the ground floor and must not read as different from it. Glass is an interior solution, expensive and needing toughening.
What closes the gap

Vertical balusters are the safest option: nothing to climb, and the gap is easy to keep. Horizontal rails look more modern but turn into a ladder to the first floor in a house with small children. Glass keeps the view and costs twice as much; cables give a thin line but need tensioning and periodic adjustment.
Where to go next
An outdoor staircase is a different product: galvanising, treads sloped away from the door and open grating. The canopy over it is described in door canopies. If you also need technical stairs with platforms, see grilles, doors and hatches: the grating is the same. Price and lead time are in how ordering works.
Frequently asked questions
What counts as a comfortable step?
A 17 cm rise with a 29 cm going. The check is simple: twice the rise plus the going should land between 60 and 65 cm — the length of a pace. If the rise grows the going has to shrink, otherwise the staircase is unpleasant to walk down.
What height is a flight ordered to?
Finished floor to finished floor, not slab to slab. Screed and floor covering eat up to 8 cm — half a step — and a flight worked out from the structural level ends up with a first and last step that do not match the rest.
What gap is allowed in a railing?
No more than 12 cm between elements. That is the size a child cannot get through. It is also why horizontal rails are treated with care in a house with children: the gap is safe, but they are easy to climb.
What should an outdoor tread be covered with?
With something water and snow fall through: expanded metal or open grating. A solid chequer plate turns into an ice rink in winter, because the water freezes on it and stays.
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